A slight change of plan on the inside door release. I received the RS-style door release strap and handle kit but I went a different route with the door release. The RS release strap is designed to pull outwards from the door panel, so behind the panel the release mechanism needs to take a 90 degree turn. Without some sort of pivot the strap binds on the plastic trim piece where it passes through the door panel. It probably isn’t a huge issue, not having some sort of pivot, but since the outside door release is electric, I need the … Continue reading Update 12/17/22: Door handles

I made padded bolsters for the doors and cut new door cards which I covered in matte black vinyl. The bolsters are made from 3/4″ PVC molding from the hardware store. It cuts and routes similar to wood, is lighter than MDX or ABS plastic and is flexible enough to bend to the contour of the upper door frame while being resistant to water and moisture. I used a round over bit to remove the sharp edges, covered the PVC piece in 1/8″ neoprene foam and a layer of black vinyl fabric. The door cards are made from 5mm plywood, … Continue reading Update 12/13/22: Door panels, digital dash

I made a dash panel overlay to cover the cutouts where I removed the gauges and switches. I sprayed the console with wrinkle paint so the finish matches the dashboard. I wanted to soften the interior and give it a more finished look, so I installed felt carpeting on the rear firewall, sills and center tunnel. Using plywood, I made panels for the passenger side to even out the floor and covered them with the felt fabric. They drop into place but eventually I’ll want to fasten them down. The felt fabric and panels only added a few pounds, much … Continue reading Update 11/14/22: Interior

I spent the last four days repainting the front chassis. On reassembly I tidied up the wiring and fasteners, using stainless fasteners where possible for better appearance. I mounted a Spal 16″ fan to improve low speed cooling. When I rewired the car, a goal was to centralize all the relays, fuses and circuit breakers on the Leash relay board inside the car. The electric steering pump draws up to 70 amps and the Spal fan requires 30 amps so instead of running that load through the Leash board, I installed a 100 amp circuit breaker and fan relay up … Continue reading Update 10/30/22: Front chassis paint

I wasn’t satisfied with the wiring in terms of reliability and serviceability. While rewiring the car, I took the opportunity to remove all switches, gauges and wiring from the dashboard and remove gauges for engine data I can display through TunerStudio. All controls, switches and warning lights are contained in a new center console, and I will use a small Android device on the steering column for engine and speed data. I installed a Leash Electronics relay board on the passenger side. In hindsight I could have used the generic inputs for the MS3Pro ECU to display fuel level and … Continue reading Update 10/17/22: Wiring

Continue reading Update 9/5/22: Out for a drive

I got the front lighting look I wanted using front combination lights from a Suzuki Samurai. The lens is beveled and I thought the lights looked best with the bevel at the top so I have the lights flipped vertically and swapped to opposite sides. I’ll use LED bulbs for better output. I ordered another set of Hella 7″ reflector housings to install at the inboard headlight locations. I installed a new quick ratio power steering rack. The ‘refurbished’ rack I got from eBay for mockup was sprayed black (including the used tie rod boots) but there was little evidence … Continue reading Update 8/18/22: Front lights

I found a solution which allows me to mount 7″ headlights that are better suited for the period and styling of the car. The problem I was having is that most 7″ headlight housing are actually larger than 7″ in diameter due to the front side adjusting screws and retaining ring tabs, but the opening in the Lancia body is only about 7.25″—not enough room to mount standard 7″ headlight housings. I initially used LED headlights that have a rear-mountable housing but they didn’t look right (bottom picture). Also, I seriously doubt their DOT rating because the beam pattern is … Continue reading Update 8/14/22

The pedal ratio for the throttle is much better but the cable movement felt a little gritty, with a high initial break-away torque at the pedal. This was still contributing to some difficulty with the off idle throttle modulation. The original throttle body position required four tight 90 degree turns to pull down on the throttle body crank (top picture). I was able to clock the throttle body 90 degrees (bottom picture) allowing me to use fewer, more gradual bends in the cable routing. The operation of the throttle is now very smooth and the cable moves freely. I need … Continue reading Update 8/7/22